Our last full day in Copenhagen started with a trip to Paper Island (Papirøen), which is a waterfront warehouse that was transformed into a food truck/cafeteria haven. We arrived right when the doors were opening, so the food truck owners were still busy prepping food stations and getting ready to serve their daily fare. We took the first 15 minutes to walk around and research our choices (and there were a ton of choices of global food – Korean, Brazilian, Italian, Japanese, Mexican) before settling on some vegetarian-friendly “toastie” sandwiches. There was plenty of seating (especially in the early afternoon) and we enjoyed seeing the global influences and decorations crammed into a small area.
After grabbing some Icelandic-inspired pancakes and coffee to warm up, we headed over to Amalienborg and Frederik’s Church. The day was cloudy and rainy, so we limited our time outside of the Palace and quickly scurried indoors to check out the Frederik’s Church, or “the marble church,” as it’s known. Don’t get me wrong, I love checking out palaces and castles but after seeing 3 others in Denmark, the interiors were starting to run together.
We arrived at the Church right as it was opening, so it was very peaceful inside and we were able to take our time admiring the marble architecture and artwork inside.
The rain let up, allowing us to stroll through the city and check out cute shops and grab some smoothies from Joe and the Juice. I grabbed some postcards to send to friends and family back home, and had enough self-control to not buy too many Moomin products. 🙂
We continued our day with a visit to the National Gallery of Denmark. I enjoyed the more historical art pieces, especially the exhibits on Nordic Art, European Art (1300-1800) and, in particular, this section on artwork that were basic objects but made to look 3D, like they jumped off the page.
Since you noticed that my favorite sections were the non-abstract art, I probably don’t have to mention that I’m not typically a fan of modern art. I think that side of my brain must not be firing all cylinders or something; a lot of it leaves me baffled. At SMK, the most oddball section was definitely the exhibit on Wilhelm Freddie. The short films were so bizarre that I had to sit through them twice. If you’re interested, here is one of the films:
I’m not really an art expert, so I can’t say anything particular insightful. There was a cool “tiny house” RV that we were allowed to go into and some robot-looking statues made from old TVs.
After our visit to SMK, we went to visit Rosenborg Castle. It was a nice castle, but I wouldn’t say it was anything spectacular. The castle had some nice artwork and furnishing, but it was a bit drab and very dark inside. Frederiksborg Castle was definitely leagues above Rosenborg. Still, Rosenborg was pretty on the outside, it was in a central location, and easy to get to.
We ended our day at Tivoli Gardens, which was near our hotel. We passed it on previous days while out and about, so I was excited to visit. It was adorable! We didn’t ride anything, since it was pretty chilly and I’m sure I would have acquired frostbite. 😉 But the grounds were cute and fun to explore. The landscaping was nice, and there were a lot of flowers and fountains. There were also some pretty cool pavilions and mini-restaurants, with live music and theater shows. The staff was passing out new samples of Pepsi Ginger, too and some new flavor of Doritos. As a fan of ginger, I was excited for the Pepsi, but after trying it – I think I’ll pass. 😦
We saw an interesting mime show. I’m not exactly sure what the plot was, but it involved a bear, a man selling off his daughter, and two women dancing with a pig caracas in the woods. I’m must not be observant, because I have no idea what the plot was. 🙂 It did make for some fun photos, though!
Our fourth day in Denmark was quite busy! I’ll have to break it into two separate chunks – the first focusing on the initial half of our day at Torvehallerne and the city’s botanical gardens. 🙂
We started off the morning at Torvehallerne, a market with numerous high-end food stands – which patrons can enjoy either on the premises or as regular grocery shopping to bring home! Torvehallerne had a very modern, clean, and bright vibe (and why wouldn’t it? It’s surrounded by glass)! Bonus for us? Since we visited during the late morning on a weekday, the market was practically empty. Don’t you love this herb stand?
We toured around the stands, drooling over the options, before settling on the spicy fried egg Bánh mì. Yum! You’ll enjoy this if you love eggs and a lot of cilantro. Finding vegetarian fare wasn’t exactly easy in Copenhagen, so we were happy to stumble across this.
From Torvehallerne, we walked over to the University of Copenhagen’s Botanical Gardens. The gardens were free to enter. The campus had nice outdoor gardens and ponds, along with beautiful historic glass greenhouses. I was surprised at the sheer variety of plants growing outdoors; they were labeled with their native habitats and there were plants from pretty much every continent happily growing outdoors. I’m jealous of the staff’s green thumbs, because I can barely keep an aloe plant alive. 🙂
The narrow stairs in the Palm House are a little scary, especially considering the humidity in the room. I couldn’t take very many good photos, because the lens on my camera kept fogging up. We especially enjoyed the moss displays. I kept hunting around the gardens trying to find all of the poisonous plants, which all have signs outlining the hazards!
For our first full day in Denmark, we decided to take the 45-minute train trip up to Hillerød to visit the beautiful Frederiksborg Slot. It was really easy to get to; we left from Central Station and once we arrived in Hillerød, the Castle area was a short walk from the train station. We opted to take the scenic route around the lake.
We really enjoyed our day! The castle houses the Museum of National History; the first exhibit we walked through was a collection of knitted renaissance outfits created by the Netmaskerne knitting guild. The exhibit was cool and I liked seeing different outfit inspirations. The castle interiors were beautiful and visitors stroll through several hundred of years of Danish history; as with most castles, we found ourselves surrounded by ornate interiors, and intricate furnishings. My two favorite rooms were the Audience Chamber and the Chapel.
On the third floor, there were exhibits of photography and modern art. The interiors housing the modern collection were still beautiful, but not quite like the better preserved and more ornate rooms on the first and second floors. My favorite part of the modern collection was a room with hand drawn sketches and paintings of Danish Arctic explorers.
The grounds were definitely the highlight. The day was beautiful and we were welcomed by blue, sunny skies. We walked around the lake, saw the gardens, and enjoyed the view of the castle from the benches along the water.
Afterward, we explored Hillerød on a quest for lunch; it was difficult to find vegetarian options. We ended up grabbing some sandwiches at Kaffebar before sitting along the waterfront and enjoying ice cream from Tortes Vaffelhus.
We went back and forth a few times before finally deciding on our spring destinations. That’s the hardest part of trip planning for me – narrowing down exactly where we want to go. We almost committed to going to South Africa, but learned that my friend Joe was studying abroad for spring semester in Copenhagen, Denmark. We shifted our plans to visit him in Copenhagen, and decided to tack on visits to Stockholm, Sweden, and Vilnius, Lithuania.
Looking for hotels in Copenhagen was an interesting challenge. For one of the days we were there, the city’s hotels seemed to be almost full. Copenhagen is an expensive city to stay in and that is definitely reflected in hotel prices. We opted to stay at the Axel Guldsmeden, which is a Balinese-influenced self-defined eco-hotel. Yes, we travelled all the way to Denmark to stay in Bali. 😉 The hotel was nice, if a bit squeaky with the hardwood floors and wooden furniture. They offer eco-amenities, like shampoos and soaps in dispensers, toothpaste tablets, and reusable plastic water bottles to take along and refill. The location is great, near Copenhagen Central train station and we were able to get to most places on foot easily.
The hotel even had a bin of organic apples and pears for guests to take, as well as bicycles to rent.
On our arrival (half) day, we visited Christiansborg Slot (Palace) and walked around the area with the Danish Parliament (Folketinget) and the Royal Library Garden.
From there, we walked over to the National Museum of Denmark. The museum was nice, though a bit random in some places. They had an exhibit on Navajo blankets and textiles, Japanese manga and cosplay culture, and arctic lifestyle/clothing. The museum also had a very darkly-lit room with a bunch of vintage doll houses (side note: we also saw doll houses at Stockholm museum – is this a Scandinavian thing?).
The museum also had exhibits on antiquities (of course!). You can’t have a National Museum without an overview of Danish history, so luckily we found those exhibit types, too. I especially liked looking at the section with Danish culture in the past 100 years – 1950s consumer culture and a 1970s room layout – seems like hippies were everywhere! The post title comes from a pillow on display at the museum.
At Tivolihallen, I had my first taste of quintessential Danish cuisine, smørrebrød (open-faced sandwich) with eggs and tomato. The restaurant staff was very friendly and accommodating. The dish was not yet on the menu, but after learning that we were vegetarian, they offered to make the egg and tomato smørrebrød for us.
On that note, Copenhagen was definitely the hardest city on this trip for finding vegetarian cuisine, but we managed. 🙂
I would highly recommend the canal tour. We were even able to see the royal yacht, which happened to be in the harbor as we rode by. We also saw Papirøen (Paper Island) from the boat, which inspired a trip a few days later.
After the canal day, we had unremarkable Italian food in Nyhavn before heading back to our hotel.